Lessons learned riding the wave of ‘ultimate’ freedom

I am a surfer. OK, I should clarify: I have surfed. For one minute.

Yes, dear readers, earlier this year, I caught a wave on the longboard. In other words, I spent a couple of days in San Diego and have figured out the art of paddle, wait, stand and pray. Oh, and I got to wear a wetsuit, which, in my opinion, is the ultimate spandex “outfit” that makes everyone look fabulous.

I was walking on the beach and a woman in her late 50s had a little sign that said, “Surfing lessons for women.” I stopped to chat. Her name, Bella Splash, intrigued me. She charged $50 for an hour lesson and had several surfboards and wetsuits to choose from. I have surfed over the past 20 years, mostly with grandsons who ended up mastering the sport. But I usually paddle out, stand up and fall off the board. I never took a lesson. What did I have to lose? (Except my life.)

Bella Splash lived in Iowa, happily married to a doctor, until she found out he was having an affair with his receptionist. So, the former Betty Brown did something amazing. She bought an RV and headed to California, learned to surf and changed her name. She teaches surfing to “empower” women. Evidently, she thought I needed a lot of empowering, as she spent two hours with me.

Bella showed me how to handle myself on the board. Standing, balance and “being centered” is everything. Oh, and catching the “right wave” is key. Not powerful enough and you do not get the right “send-off.” Too big and you will certainly crash. Bella said since it “takes years” to pick the right wave, just follow her lead.

Before I ever entered the water, Bella had me stand on the board. Lay, paddle and pop up. We went through that drill dozens of times. Hmm, I have not taken the technique seriously! Bella talked me through the correct posture and how to properly position on the board. She said if I catch “one good wave” I will experience the “ultimate” in freedom. Gliding on a wave, being in the present moment, pure joy and exhilaration, is what she was selling. OK, I was skeptical.

And then it happened. Bella shouted, “This is the one!” And suddenly we were paddling back toward shore as the perfect swell came rushing.

A small miracle occurred that day. I paddled, pressed up and with Bella yelling, “Now!” I stood, riding on the top of a shimmering wall of water. For one blessed minute, I “became” a surfer. No worries, spray of water, blue ocean below and flying on the edge of a wave heading into shore is about as good as it gets.

I left the beach pondering “Bella’s Rules” (for surfing or life?). Choose the wave wisely. Practice. Be patient. Then commit. Keep moving forward. Don’t look back. Stand tall, chin up. Be fearless. Never let age stop you. Embrace the moment. Feel the joy. Seize the day. Enjoy the ride.

Judy Bluhm is a writer and a local Realtor. Contact her at [email protected] or at aroundthebluhmintown.com.

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